Saturday, June 2, 2012

An Eater's Manifesto


I don’t eat well, I eat too much when I do, and I seldom eat three meals a day. That being said, I love food. I love the culture that emerges from food, and I love the hidden aspects that surround food, regardless of whether we see that in our daily lives. In a culture that emphasizes maximum output of work at the least expense, time becomes essential. For too long, our society has attempted to extinguish the connection between the farmer and the consumer. However, time is now saying otherwise, and a resurgence in food values and ethics has emerged that rivals the might of President Teddy Roosevelt’s food reformation at the turn of the 20th century. Despite being confined to the limits of Sodexho in college, I know that when I move off of campus, I will care about the food I am putting in my body, and I will care about where that food came from. Eating organic is not enough to sustain a planet – we need to eat local, we need to eat fresh, and we need to eat in a way that will replenish the earth we walk on. As a whole, we need to stop eating processed food and start thinking about real, sustainable food. If we do not give back to the Earth sooner rather than later, we will have nothing left to take. In my life, the actions I take to promote sustainable eating will in fact have an impact on the world, so let’s beg in. What is sustainable eating?
            The Environmental Protection Agency defines sustainability as “everything that we need for our survival and well-being depends, either directly or indirectly, on our natural environment. Sustainability creates and maintains the conditions under which humans and nature can exist in productive harmony, that permit fulfilling the social, economic and other requirements of present and future generations” (Sustainability Information). However I’d rather reflect on a more contemporary and informal definition – one that takes people back to their hands and knees, where dirt and water is the only thing between you and your food. When I think of sustainability, I think of the capacity to endure, to thrive and to reproduce in a fashion that allows our grandchildren to do the same. America arguably stood as the most sustainable continent in the world – that was until the Europeans arrived in the 15th century. So I am going to take the liberty to quote the Native Americans here, “Seventh Generation Advisors puts into modern practice the ancient Native American philosophy that the decisions we make today should result in a sustainable world seven generations into the future. Ensuring that decisions being made about our energy, water, and natural resources are sustainable is central to this belief and to our mission (Seventh Generation Advisors)”. That, in my opinion, is sustainable, and that practice counteracts the time-oriented culture we live around. So let’s start to take some time out of the day to make our lives less time-oriented, and more oriented around the things that are important.
I must say however, I am both bias and spoiled. My passion for food is found in the hands-on component of harvesting crops and raising livestock. There is something refreshing and therapeutic about milking a cow with your hand (though few may admit it), and you develop an appreciation for food that you didn’t know existed. No, I cannot testify that slaughtering animals is pleasant, but it’s an experience you won’t appreciate or understand until you actually do it. I say that because of the culture we live, and the disconnect we find between ourselves, our food, and the space between. We forget about the families and farmers that depend on growing food, and the sailors who rely on ocean freighters for work, and the supermarkets that categorize mass into a manageable shopping experience. There is a link in every part of the food chain that sustains not just consumers, but jobs as well. This is crucial to keep in mind, because if we are too change the American food industry, we must find ways to allocate old, industrial-corporate jobs, to the fields where food is grown.
U.S. consumers are arguably, the pickiest eaters in the world. Not in the sense that we only eat certain foods, or that we only eat fast food like much of the world may choose to believe - but rather the contrary. With wealth and power comes accessibility, and at a cheap cost. When you walk into your local Safeway in February, it is evident that much of the produce and vegetables on display requires a warmer climate than the United States offers growers in that season. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, “As Americans have become wealthier and more ethnically diverse, the American food basket reflects a growing share of tropical products, spices, and imported gourmet products. Seasonal and climatic factors drive U.S. imports of popular types of fruits and vegetables and tropical products, such as cocoa and coffee” (US Food Imports). The commodities offered to the average American consumer are, as an understatement, abundant. Only a handful of countries in the world can compete with the supermarkets of America, and even those that do tend to lack the diversity and choice found within the aisles of your local produce section. As American’s, we have mastered the art of bringing Chile and Costa Rica to our local produce section. These practices, however, represent everything that is wrong with our society. No, fruit imports in the winter are not going to cease from around the world; economic and global stability relies on an interconnected agricultural sector in which countries can support one another. There are however small steps we can take to reduce the amount of foreign foods consumed, and that goes back to one of the simplest forms of growing food – in your back yard.
Our ancestors mastered the art of local farming, and the decades surrounding World War II forced not only Americans, but British, French, and countless other nations to utilize the backyard garden. From tomatoes, to berries, to herbs, to chickens – families learned to sustain themselves because they had no other option. War torn nations saw the collapse of their own agricultural economy, and countries such as the United States were forced to send the bulk of their food to soldiers and food-deprived nations throughout the world. Today, circumstances have changed. No, we are not forced to conserve food for our soldiers abroad, however we are forced to conserve food and resources for our grandchildren’s children. I am not proposing we drop everything and join an Amish community, although I must say life would be much more simple. What I am proposing is a return to our roots – reinventing the practice that our ancestors thrived off of. Pollan suggests, “Don’t eat anything your great-great-grandmother wouldn’t recognize as food” (Unhappy Meals, 15). He goes on to state, “Especially avoid food products containing ingredients that are a) unfamiliar, b) unpronounceable, c) more than five in number – or that contain high fructose corn syrup…and get out of the supermarket whenever possible” (16) – suggesting that farmer markets are a healthier and more viable solution. His advice is sounds and intelligent, Pollan suggests a world where eating better is tangible. I guarantee that the foods you grow in your back yard won’t contain any of the ingredients that Pollan says to avoid.
It seems today’s food reformation is not too different from those of the past. “At the turn of the 20th Century, America’s food was rotten.  A good part of the reason for this were the filthy conditions in the slaughter houses and packing houses, mostly in Chicago, where cattle and other livestock were butchered and processed for the consumer.  There was no law permitting the federal government to inspect what could be likened to nothing less than charnel houses and to keep bad meat and other foods from crossing into other states” (Pure Food and Drug Act). It was Roosevelt that took the initiative to clean up the American food system over one hundred years ago, and now today, it is the small farmers, the field workers, and the grow houses who are rewriting history. Of course, we must be able to sustain and feed a growing population, but when slaughterhouses are built to massacre 33,000 hogs in a day (Food Inc.), one must realize that an operation this large cannot humanely or properly monitor the death of all of those pigs. It is time we stop eating chickens that are doused in ammonia. It is time that we stop preventing animals from seeing the light of day. In order to eat healthy, we must change the way the large corporations act. Not everyone will be able to take the time to eat locally, to farm, or to afford foods from the local farmer’s market – and that is fine. What I am recommending is that the American people stand up to the corporations who insist chemicals ensure good health. It is time the American people awoke as a whole. When the people lead, the leaders begin to follow. Let’s start to lead, together – just like Teddy Roosevelt did in the early nineteen hundreds.

That’s it, that’s all.

Local, sustainable, fresh, organic – I know they seem like dull trade words at this point, but they hold the power to save our food and more importantly, our bodies. I believe in sustainable agriculture because it has the power to not only produce healthy foods for healthy bodies, but it has the capacity to endure. Our children’s children need to know what real food is like. At the current rate, I am horrified to imagine the food we will be eating one hundred years from now, but I also know so much can change in one hundred years. So let’s get back to our hands and knees, where dirt is plentiful and sweat is rewarding. For those who have the smallest of yards, go buy a chicken. I promise they’re not too expensive, and when the time comes – I will personally show you how to slaughter them for meat. For those of you who have more than a small yard, buy a goat. They are cheaper than a nice lawnmower, and the milk you get from them is some of the most nutritious in the world. I know these ideas may seem crazy for some of you who prefer the farmer’s market and the organic section in your local grocery, but they are ideas that endure. That is what we need, not for our sake, not for our children’s sake, but as the Native Americans practice, for the sake of the seventh generation down the road from now. Let’s stop manufacturing processed, bulk food at a cheap rate, and let’s start enduring. It will not be easy, but with passion and knowledge, the world is yours for the taking. So reach out and take it.




Works Cited

Pollan, Michael. "Unhappy Meals." The New York Times. The New York Times, 28 Jan.
2007. Web. May 2012.
<http://www.nytimes.com/2007/01/28/magazine/28nutritionism.t.html?pagewanted=all>.
"Pure Food and Drug Act - Biography of Theodore Roosevelt by Theodore Roosevelt
Association." Web. May 2012.
<http://www.theodoreroosevelt.org/life/purefooddrug.htm>.
"Seventh Generation Advisors." About SGA. Web. May 2012.
<http://www.seventhgenerationadvisors.org/>.
"Sustainability Information | EPA Research | EPA." EPA. United States Environmental
Protection Agency. Web. May 2012. <http://www.epa.gov/sustainability/basicinfo.htm>.
"U.S. Food Imports." ERS/USDA Data -. 10 Apr. 2012. Web. Apr. 2012.
<http://www.ers.usda.gov/Data/FoodImports/>.